The one area where Peco track is not so smart is point motors.
#Anyrail 6 review free#
Some older models won't run on it unless wheels are replaced with modern types: but most of what has been produced from the 1990s on is fine, and the currently manufactured products will be trouble free on it. With no prior commitments by the sounds of it, why not start from 'better'?
#Anyrail 6 review code#
It forms the curves much more easily than code 100, and the rails are easier to cut: because the rail cross section is only half that of code 100. It comes with two real advantages for tracklaying, quite apart from its better appearance. This is the part of their OO track range that Peco are expanding. If you are set on the flexitrack only route, then I would recommend you take a look at Peco code 75 for OO. I know I'm only gaining 20 square feet but it's a gain that could allow for a little bit more freedom (especially with larger curve radius). Again, I’ll post more about my plans, ideas in the correct section of the forum, but I think I am planning to go with peco streamline code 100 and definitely flexi-track (I've also managed to shuffle my back yard about and made space to increase originally planned 10ft x 8ft shed to 12ft x 10ft. I've read and have been advised that peco points are really well made, and that it is best to use points that are all metal and no plastic bits. (Once above 30" radius you have to work hard in operating the trains badly to make them derail!)Īgain, thanks for these invaluable tips - It will all help me 'planning, and making decisions when drafting ideas, especially the radius figures you have given me. Part of the joy of flexitrack is that the curve radii can be customised exactly to suit the space, and general experience in OO suggests real benefits in operational reliability as radius increases. If you use a model shop selling flexitrack, there should be the possibility of a demonstration: arrange in advance to visit when the shop is likely to be quiet.īigmet wrote: When starting out with flexitrack a minimum radius of 24" is a good plan - it can go much smaller once the skill is developed but leave that for now - however this does require layout space, so measure up what space you have. It is all 'fit, cut and try' work and needs tools to cut the rail and track base and thus adapt the track to the location. A drawn line made by a trammel is used to set out curves. The way I do it is to start from a point (or network of points) as a fixed location, and then lay the track outwards from there.
#Anyrail 6 review software#
No software to help here: you need to purchase some flexitrack and try forming curves. (Once above 30" radius you have to work hard in operating the trains badly to make them derail!) When starting out with flexitrack a minimum radius of 24" is a good plan - it can go much smaller once the skill is developed but leave that for now - however this does require layout space, so measure up what space you have. While it is possible to mix a flexitrack system like Peco's Streamline with set track pieces, frankly it is a pain that involves more work than just going with flexitrack throughout. The alternative is to use flexitrack, and I think what you are effectively saying here is that you haven't ever formed a curve from flexitrack? Assuming that I'm modeling with Peco Streamline turnouts, would using hornby's curve radius track pieces still cause issues? If so what is the alternative? Lee2017 wrote.Where I'm a little bamboozled is regards to the curve radius tracks. Enjoy designing your layout - AnyRail ensures everything fits. Top Software Keywords Show more Show lessĪnyRail™ is probably the easiest-to-use model railway design tool around.
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